From cornrows to hoop earrings, Black women’s influence on fashion and beauty is undeniable. These trends, steeped in cultural heritage, have transcended time and geography, leaving a lasting mark worldwide.
Yet, time and again, these same styles—rooted in the stories and struggles of Black women—are appropriated, taken and displayed on non-Black bodies. In contrast, Black women are ridiculed or even penalized for wearing them. It’s a paradox that speaks volumes about how Black culture is simultaneously revered and disregarded.
Appropriation v. appreciation
Is it appropriation or appreciation when white women co-opt traditionally “Black” styles? Credit: Getty
Cultural appropriation and appreciation can go hand in hand, but there’s a fine line between the two. Appropriation occurs when elements of Black culture—styles, language, art—are co-opted without acknowledgment of their origins, history or the people who created them. Appreciation, on the other hand, is rooted in respect and recognition. It’s about acknowledging and honoring the legacy behind these cultural markers.
The double standards at play here are glaring. Consider, for example, how non-Black women are lauded for wearing braids, pumping collagen into their lips to make them bigger or even tanning their skin darker, all in an attempt to emulate aesthetics tied to Black culture.
Yet, when Black women wear these same styles, they’re often met with scorn or told their appearance is “unprofessional” or “unpolished.” The irony is clear: the very traits that are praised when adopted by non-Black women are dismissed when worn by the women who have historically and culturally owned them.
The other side of the coin
Some argue that Black women are guilty of cultural appropriation as well when wearing blonde hair. Credit: Getty
Of course, white women can argue that we’re displaying our cultural appropriation when we have 20-inch yaky, or bleach blonde hair. When Black women wear straight weaves or wigs to fit into a Eurocentric standard of beauty, it’s often viewed as a matter of personal choice.
But let’s be real: This “choice” is often shaped by the unrelenting pressure to conform, assimilate and align with mainstream beauty standards that have historically sidelined Black features. I spent 20 years as a television news anchor/reporter. Braids were automatically deemed unprofessional. And anything other than silky straight was deemed “too ethnic.”
Thankfully, that’s changed SOMEWHAT with forward-thinking media outlets, but the preference remains for straight hair over kinky curls. Even for light skin over darker tones (yes, we’re STILL having that debate) which reflects the deeply ingrained racism and colorism that shape our society. These styles are often seen as more “acceptable” in the workplace or in social spaces—an unfortunate reality Black women must navigate daily.
On the other side of the coin, sometimes, it ain’t that deep. It isn’t about appropriating white culture. Many Black women prefer straightened hair because caring for natural hair is time-consuming and A LOT of work (kudos to the sisters who do it on the regular).
Giving credit where credit is due
Many believe there’s a double standard when it comes to Black beauty, like Black women being ridiculed for big lips when white women get lip injections to obtain that same look. Credit: Getty
The economic and social consequences of cultural appropriation are profound. When Black culture is commodified, it is typically done without crediting the creators or communities who gave birth to these trends.
Fashion and beauty brands profit immensely from elements of Black culture while failing to include Black creators in their stories. This cycle erases the contributions of Black women, reducing them to mere sources of inspiration rather than innovators in their own right. The toll this takes is not just financial but emotional. It’s disheartening to see cultural markers stripped of their history and repackaged as mere trends, with no acknowledgment of the trauma, resilience and beauty from which they sprang.
So, what does true appreciation look like? For one, it involves understanding that Black culture is not a trend to be worn conveniently. True appreciation means engaging with Black culture in a way that honors its history and significance.
It means giving credit where it’s due and acknowledging the women who have pushed boundaries in the fashion and beauty industries, often against the backdrop of systemic discrimination. Non-Black people can appreciate Black culture by learning its origins and contributing to conversations that uplift Black creators rather than perpetuating a cycle of exploitation.
Fashion brands and beauty industries can do more than profit from Black culture—they can support Black artists, designers and influencers, ensuring that their contributions are recognized and valued.
Shifting the conversation
Black culture isn’t a trend, it’s a legacy. Credit: Getty
Cultural appropriation is not simply a matter of “borrowing” style. It’s about power dynamics—the power to commodify, profit and erase. If we want to move from appropriation to appreciation, we must shift the conversation from tokenism to genuine respect. That means moving beyond performative gestures that celebrate Black culture without understanding it.
True appreciation requires acknowledgment, accountability and action—recognizing the origins of Black cultural expression, crediting its creators and ensuring Black voices have ownership and influence over the trends they set.
Appreciation looks like an investment in Black creatives, not just admiration of their work. It means buying from Black designers, crediting Black innovators, hiring Black talent and uplifting Black-owned brands rather than simply mimicking their aesthetics. It’s about engaging with the culture in a way that honors its roots, rather than stripping it of meaning for mass consumption.
It’s time to stop treating Black culture as a trend and start honoring it as a legacy. The beauty and style Black women bring to the world are not for sale—they are a birthright, a history, a story of resilience and innovation. Let’s rethink what it means to truly appreciate Black culture, and in doing so, begin to heal the harm that appropriation has caused.
